A beautiful overnight sail on a calm sea brough us to the major port of La Rochelle - yachts, yachts, everywhere. Entering a marina with 3,500 berths (many with 3 yachts rafted together) was mind-blowing - masts as far as you could see in all directions. What a different world! Another opportunity to catch up on chores and prepare for our jaunt down the west coast of France to Bilboa in Spain, with an essential stop along the way to visit the Bordeaux wineries and restock Olydia's cellar for the long haul across the Atlantic.
Another comfortable evening sail brought us to Port Medoc, on the massive ? River, which flows through Bordeaux and all the way through to the Mediterranean. Unable to hire a car here, we enjoyed a lovely lunch and continued on to Arcachon, a bigger port, 35 nM away. The coastline here reminded me of Western Australia - miles of white sandy beaches, backed by sand dunes with low scrub. We were constantly sailing over flat sandy bottom at 25m, and with a 20kt NWly, experiencing perfect sailing for heading south, maintaining speeds in excess of 8kts.
The Arcachon Basin is famous for its lengthy sandy spit we had to sail around to enter the channel to the Basin, so we were timing this to arrive at low water, to get the incoming tide. Unfortunately, it is also known for its soft, shifting sands (the extreme nature of which we were unaware). At approx 11.30pm, Olydia entered the marked channel, passing between the port and starboard markers, following the GPS track on the electronic chart. Within approximately 10 minutes of entering the channel the vessel began hitting the bottom between waves and with the strong (still outgoing) tide, 3m swell and 20kt NW wind, was swept onto an uncharted sandbank. After 20-30 minutes of battling to find adequate depth, the vessel was grounded. At 0004 hrs on 25th September the Captain transmitted a Mayday call for rescue. By 0200 hrs all 5 of us on board were rescued, out of the sea, by a Helicopter Rescue team. By this time Olydia was on her side being pounded by 3m surf, the hull had cracked and she was filling with water. The rescue team was amazing; however our 22m mast meant it was impossible for them to extract us from the boat. We therefore had to jump into the sea, one at a time, and make our way through the 3m surf to where the diver, on a cable from the chopper, was able to pick us up. This all went smoothly and Olydia held together, protecting us, despite the continued pounding of the surf.
We were taken to Centre Hospitalier D'Arcachon where we stayed overnight; amazingly no-one was killed - our only injury being Susan's badly twisted knee.
After a few days in Paris to restock a little (everything went down), and get a new Passport, we all flew back to our homes, feeling rather shattered, and grieving our tragic loss of the beautiful Olydia II.
I'm back in Darwin now; but 'getting back on the horse' - this afternoon actually. I'm heading out to sea once again; this time on the MV Hyland C, with Mal and crew for his last 2 months stint in the Kimberley for the year. I'll be back in Darwin at the end of November. That's my future for the moment.
There is already discussion between Capt and Crew about continuing our voyage when this is sorted and settled. We are all keen, so I am hopeful it will happen. I've never felt more at home and happy, than I did on this cruise. This has confirmed for me, that I'm heading in the right direction.
My heartfelt thanks go to our wonderful Captain, Goran, and to my fantastic crew mates, from Sweden and the US - we are a great team!!
Below is a little poem which popped out of my heart while waiting in the airport in Paris.
To Olydia II
It was love at first site -
Your beautiful lines,
So sleek, yet so strong
Your teak, soft and warm.
You took gales in your stride
with balance and grace;
Slicing through the North Sea,
Tossing aside steep Irish seas
You laughed at our antics,
lock after lock;
You showed us the Highlands
and cruised through the Lochs.
You gave us a home,
such comfort and warmth.
You hosted our parties
and shared in the mirth.
Through sunsets of magic
you slipped through the sea.
We glided up moonbeams,
our spirits so free.
You saved us, Olydia,
on that fateful night;
Held tight in your bosom
despite crushing might.
Until we were rescued
you kept us all safe.
I'll never forget you,
Our Lady of Grace.
Roslyn (Australia)
