A beautiful overnight sail on a calm sea brough us to the major port of La Rochelle - yachts, yachts, everywhere. Entering a marina with 3,500 berths (many with 3 yachts rafted together) was mind-blowing - masts as far as you could see in all directions. What a different world! Another opportunity to catch up on chores and prepare for our jaunt down the west coast of France to Bilboa in Spain, with an essential stop along the way to visit the Bordeaux wineries and restock Olydia's cellar for the long haul across the Atlantic.
Another comfortable evening sail brought us to Port Medoc, on the massive ? River, which flows through Bordeaux and all the way through to the Mediterranean. Unable to hire a car here, we enjoyed a lovely lunch and continued on to Arcachon, a bigger port, 35 nM away. The coastline here reminded me of Western Australia - miles of white sandy beaches, backed by sand dunes with low scrub. We were constantly sailing over flat sandy bottom at 25m, and with a 20kt NWly, experiencing perfect sailing for heading south, maintaining speeds in excess of 8kts.
The Arcachon Basin is famous for its lengthy sandy spit we had to sail around to enter the channel to the Basin, so we were timing this to arrive at low water, to get the incoming tide. Unfortunately, it is also known for its soft, shifting sands (the extreme nature of which we were unaware). At approx 11.30pm, Olydia entered the marked channel, passing between the port and starboard markers, following the GPS track on the electronic chart. Within approximately 10 minutes of entering the channel the vessel began hitting the bottom between waves and with the strong (still outgoing) tide, 3m swell and 20kt NW wind, was swept onto an uncharted sandbank. After 20-30 minutes of battling to find adequate depth, the vessel was grounded. At 0004 hrs on 25th September the Captain transmitted a Mayday call for rescue. By 0200 hrs all 5 of us on board were rescued, out of the sea, by a Helicopter Rescue team. By this time Olydia was on her side being pounded by 3m surf, the hull had cracked and she was filling with water. The rescue team was amazing; however our 22m mast meant it was impossible for them to extract us from the boat. We therefore had to jump into the sea, one at a time, and make our way through the 3m surf to where the diver, on a cable from the chopper, was able to pick us up. This all went smoothly and Olydia held together, protecting us, despite the continued pounding of the surf.
We were taken to Centre Hospitalier D'Arcachon where we stayed overnight; amazingly no-one was killed - our only injury being Susan's badly twisted knee.
After a few days in Paris to restock a little (everything went down), and get a new Passport, we all flew back to our homes, feeling rather shattered, and grieving our tragic loss of the beautiful Olydia II.
I'm back in Darwin now; but 'getting back on the horse' - this afternoon actually. I'm heading out to sea once again; this time on the MV Hyland C, with Mal and crew for his last 2 months stint in the Kimberley for the year. I'll be back in Darwin at the end of November. That's my future for the moment.
There is already discussion between Capt and Crew about continuing our voyage when this is sorted and settled. We are all keen, so I am hopeful it will happen. I've never felt more at home and happy, than I did on this cruise. This has confirmed for me, that I'm heading in the right direction.
My heartfelt thanks go to our wonderful Captain, Goran, and to my fantastic crew mates, from Sweden and the US - we are a great team!!
Below is a little poem which popped out of my heart while waiting in the airport in Paris.
To Olydia II
It was love at first site -
Your beautiful lines,
So sleek, yet so strong
Your teak, soft and warm.
You took gales in your stride
with balance and grace;
Slicing through the North Sea,
Tossing aside steep Irish seas
You laughed at our antics,
lock after lock;
You showed us the Highlands
and cruised through the Lochs.
You gave us a home,
such comfort and warmth.
You hosted our parties
and shared in the mirth.
Through sunsets of magic
you slipped through the sea.
We glided up moonbeams,
our spirits so free.
You saved us, Olydia,
on that fateful night;
Held tight in your bosom
despite crushing might.
Until we were rescued
you kept us all safe.
I'll never forget you,
Our Lady of Grace.
Roslyn (Australia)
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Photos for Dublin to Belle Ile post
Sun setting on the Bay of Biscay - leaving Belle-Ile-en-Mer
OlydiaII (foreground) moored under the Citadelle Vauban fortress, Belle Ile en Mer
1,000+ Nm
53 to 46 deg N (and getting warmer)
Olydia's crew really enjoyed our 3-day break ashore in Dublin; taking in the local colour with the markets (particularly the cheeses and wines); a Dublin tour, shopping, eating out, and an excellent tour of the Guinness Warehouse/brewery, culminating in drinking your requisite pint of the creamy brew (yes, I managed it!). I was even able to buy an alternate pair of jeans so that I could peel off my one and only, salt-encrusted pair.
Monday 13th - Tues 14th - with the Capt back aboard, we were soon heading south again, eager to reach warmer climes. After battling a 30-40 kt SW gale in the Irish Sea (with an inconvenient reef between us and shelter), with a strong current against the waves, causing a particularly steep, nasty sea, we finally made it into the perfect haven of Arklow, just before midnight, to our welcome warm cabins and bunks (Olydia’s diesel heater is fantastic). Somewhere out there our foreward port light had gone out, and on inspection the next morning, we found only 2 wires - it was missing! No doubt, a good whack from one of those waves in the dark. Our foreward lights now also sport good old duct tape, ready for the next gale.
What a beautiful, and particularly friendly little Irish town we found ourselves in. Lorcan O’Toole at the local Marina was a Godsend to our weary crew, weighed down with even more than the usual mountain of salty laundry. He provided a private ’taxi service’ and all the necessary contacts and information to ease our way through the tasks of a busy day ashore in a strange port.
After a pleasant evening sail on 14th, hugging the shelter of the Irish coast, we arrived at Kilmore Quay in time to light the candles on Goran’s Guiness & chocolate birthday cake, before midnight. And what a picturesque fishing village Kilmore Quay is, with many buildings featuring old as well as new, thatched roofs. After managing a long overdue haircut, a lovely relaxing day in this gorgeous little Irish village, was topped off with a delicious seafood dinner in a local restaurant, before setting sail once again – this time for Penzance in Cornwall, England.
We were relieved with a surprisingly calm crossing of the Irish Sea to Cornwall; with just a big, rolly swell to remind us we were still at sea through the night. Around this time we clocked up a milestone - our first 1,000 Nm. It was neat to round Lands End, recalling standing there, looking out to sea, 37 years ago, never dreaming I would one day sail past. The cruise along the Cornish coast was lovely, with cliffs strewn with the infamous caves of the pirates and smugglers. We berthed in the beautiful little fishing village of Newlyn; adjacent to Penzance, a 20 min walk along the foreshore. This is a major crab and lobster exporting area. The crew enjoyed a day exploring the area, while the Capt organised some starter-motor maintenance for Olydia.
With everything ship-shape again, we left the UK behind – next stop, Brittany. Another calm crossing; aware that another low pressure system was only a day away, and keen to get out of this weather zone. The heavy shipping traffic kept us on our toes during our night watches. Early the next morning, Goran made contact with a Swedish Naval training sailing ship, the ‘Falcon’, heading our way, as we entered the Bay of Biscay. Goran had done his naval training on her many moons ago, so this was quite significant. We sailed alongside her for a short time which was exciting. (not sure if I can upload my video clip of her overtaking us). We spent the rest of the day cruising along the Brittany coast, entertained by an exuberant pod of dophins (with white tummies) playing with us for quite some time.
Our first overnight stop was in a marina full of yachts at Cameret, a Riviera style town on the Brittany coast; obviously a popular holiday destination for the wealthy in summer. Another lovely cruise the next day, past small islands and interesting rock formations, took us to Benardet; trolling all the way; unfortunately still no fish; bananas are now banned on Olydia! This marina was in the river under a park; very picturesque and ‘up-market’. I’ve never seen so many yachts in one place.
After a quick wander ashore the next morning, we were headed for our first French destination of Belle-Ile-en-Mer – glassy calm sea all day – and still no sign of fish! What an amazing island; Olydia moored fore and aft under the imposing walls of the Citadelle Vauban; a massive fortress which towers over the small harbour. Our ‘dinghy ferry’ we set up to get us across to the stone wall we had to climb (up a very old ladder) to get ashore, was entertaining (probably more-so for the neighbouring yachts). We hired a car to drive around the island, famous for its magnificent coastline of cliffs and secluded beaches, with sheep grazing above. It’s amazing that such a beautiful island has managed to escape the trappings of major tourism for so long. I thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the museum in the Citadelle; built in the 11th century as a monastery, and reconstructed as a fort in the 16th and 17th centuries. The history of this little island, and its sea battles, right up to WWII, was incredible. I got so engrossed in its Maritime Museum, I managed to get locked in at closing time!! After some heavy hammering on the ancient wooden doors, and yelling through the crack, I was rescued by an embarrassed attendant. Children dream of being locked in a toy shop overnight; but not a museum in an ancient stone fortress!
Having narrowly escaped imprisonment, I leaped aboard Olydia and we headed out onto a still glassy ocean, and into a magical sunset on an oily sea, for an overnight cruise down to La Rochelle on the French coast – mid Bay of Biscay. Not sure where the famous Bay of Biscay gales have gone; but not looking. Weather is forecast to change in a couple of days, so presently enjoying the newfound sunshine – I’ve even brought out the shorts!
Even my new French lure isn’t getting results! Watch this space, I’ll catch a fish one of these days!
Love to all back home,
Ros in France xxxxxx
53 to 46 deg N (and getting warmer)
Olydia's crew really enjoyed our 3-day break ashore in Dublin; taking in the local colour with the markets (particularly the cheeses and wines); a Dublin tour, shopping, eating out, and an excellent tour of the Guinness Warehouse/brewery, culminating in drinking your requisite pint of the creamy brew (yes, I managed it!). I was even able to buy an alternate pair of jeans so that I could peel off my one and only, salt-encrusted pair.
Monday 13th - Tues 14th - with the Capt back aboard, we were soon heading south again, eager to reach warmer climes. After battling a 30-40 kt SW gale in the Irish Sea (with an inconvenient reef between us and shelter), with a strong current against the waves, causing a particularly steep, nasty sea, we finally made it into the perfect haven of Arklow, just before midnight, to our welcome warm cabins and bunks (Olydia’s diesel heater is fantastic). Somewhere out there our foreward port light had gone out, and on inspection the next morning, we found only 2 wires - it was missing! No doubt, a good whack from one of those waves in the dark. Our foreward lights now also sport good old duct tape, ready for the next gale.
What a beautiful, and particularly friendly little Irish town we found ourselves in. Lorcan O’Toole at the local Marina was a Godsend to our weary crew, weighed down with even more than the usual mountain of salty laundry. He provided a private ’taxi service’ and all the necessary contacts and information to ease our way through the tasks of a busy day ashore in a strange port.
After a pleasant evening sail on 14th, hugging the shelter of the Irish coast, we arrived at Kilmore Quay in time to light the candles on Goran’s Guiness & chocolate birthday cake, before midnight. And what a picturesque fishing village Kilmore Quay is, with many buildings featuring old as well as new, thatched roofs. After managing a long overdue haircut, a lovely relaxing day in this gorgeous little Irish village, was topped off with a delicious seafood dinner in a local restaurant, before setting sail once again – this time for Penzance in Cornwall, England.
We were relieved with a surprisingly calm crossing of the Irish Sea to Cornwall; with just a big, rolly swell to remind us we were still at sea through the night. Around this time we clocked up a milestone - our first 1,000 Nm. It was neat to round Lands End, recalling standing there, looking out to sea, 37 years ago, never dreaming I would one day sail past. The cruise along the Cornish coast was lovely, with cliffs strewn with the infamous caves of the pirates and smugglers. We berthed in the beautiful little fishing village of Newlyn; adjacent to Penzance, a 20 min walk along the foreshore. This is a major crab and lobster exporting area. The crew enjoyed a day exploring the area, while the Capt organised some starter-motor maintenance for Olydia.
With everything ship-shape again, we left the UK behind – next stop, Brittany. Another calm crossing; aware that another low pressure system was only a day away, and keen to get out of this weather zone. The heavy shipping traffic kept us on our toes during our night watches. Early the next morning, Goran made contact with a Swedish Naval training sailing ship, the ‘Falcon’, heading our way, as we entered the Bay of Biscay. Goran had done his naval training on her many moons ago, so this was quite significant. We sailed alongside her for a short time which was exciting. (not sure if I can upload my video clip of her overtaking us). We spent the rest of the day cruising along the Brittany coast, entertained by an exuberant pod of dophins (with white tummies) playing with us for quite some time.
Our first overnight stop was in a marina full of yachts at Cameret, a Riviera style town on the Brittany coast; obviously a popular holiday destination for the wealthy in summer. Another lovely cruise the next day, past small islands and interesting rock formations, took us to Benardet; trolling all the way; unfortunately still no fish; bananas are now banned on Olydia! This marina was in the river under a park; very picturesque and ‘up-market’. I’ve never seen so many yachts in one place.
After a quick wander ashore the next morning, we were headed for our first French destination of Belle-Ile-en-Mer – glassy calm sea all day – and still no sign of fish! What an amazing island; Olydia moored fore and aft under the imposing walls of the Citadelle Vauban; a massive fortress which towers over the small harbour. Our ‘dinghy ferry’ we set up to get us across to the stone wall we had to climb (up a very old ladder) to get ashore, was entertaining (probably more-so for the neighbouring yachts). We hired a car to drive around the island, famous for its magnificent coastline of cliffs and secluded beaches, with sheep grazing above. It’s amazing that such a beautiful island has managed to escape the trappings of major tourism for so long. I thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the museum in the Citadelle; built in the 11th century as a monastery, and reconstructed as a fort in the 16th and 17th centuries. The history of this little island, and its sea battles, right up to WWII, was incredible. I got so engrossed in its Maritime Museum, I managed to get locked in at closing time!! After some heavy hammering on the ancient wooden doors, and yelling through the crack, I was rescued by an embarrassed attendant. Children dream of being locked in a toy shop overnight; but not a museum in an ancient stone fortress!
Having narrowly escaped imprisonment, I leaped aboard Olydia and we headed out onto a still glassy ocean, and into a magical sunset on an oily sea, for an overnight cruise down to La Rochelle on the French coast – mid Bay of Biscay. Not sure where the famous Bay of Biscay gales have gone; but not looking. Weather is forecast to change in a couple of days, so presently enjoying the newfound sunshine – I’ve even brought out the shorts!
Even my new French lure isn’t getting results! Watch this space, I’ll catch a fish one of these days!
Love to all back home,
Ros in France xxxxxx
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Norway to Scotland photos
Clouds roll in on Ben Nevis; approaching Fort William at the end of the Caledonian Canal
Celebrating 15,000 nm in Olydia II .... and toasting the next 15,000
Cruising down Loch Linnhe - Ros & Shawna
Working our way up through one of the 27 locks in the Caledonian Canal (Barbro)
Ros & Gunilla trolling across North Scotland Barbro & Ros cleaning mackeral, Norway
Norway to Ireland
58 - 53 deg N -- Norway to Ireland -- 26 Aug – 9 Sept
Weather: from calm, warm, blue skies to ‘icicle’ freezing winds (thank you Keith for insisting I bring some Antarctic gear; it’s getting well worn!)
A 24 hr sail from Skagen in Denmark to Norway found us in the picturesque village of Farsound on the south coast. Being able to berth Olydia amid other yachts on a little pier in the middle of town, was most convenient, especially as we arrived in time for a music festival. Just finished Saturday lunch and we hear the skirl of the bagpipes – so the Capt and I headed off in search of the source, deserting our boat cleaning duties. I was soon dancing ‘Strip the Willow’ in the town centre, to an excellent Fiddle and Bagpipe group over from Scotland. The Capt reneged on this opportunity for healthy exercise (probably wise with his lanky Viking build!) We had a great afternoon, with folk groups from different neighbouring countries performing (all for free) at different venues around town. This was topped off with a great night in a Norwegian pub, with more entertainment.
I broke out the fishing gear in Norway in a vain attempt to catch a mackeral; ably assisted by a couple of locals; one of whom even gave me Norwegian mackerel lures. At least the locals weren’t catching any either. It was fun to set up my fishing gear and have a go with the locals; who cracked up when they saw my lures for the deep blue.
After a couple of delightful days, and with a favourable weather forecast, we set off to tackle the infamous North Sea. We spent the morning of 28th motoring along the magnificent Norwegian coast in very calm conditions; with a brief stop for a plunge into the icy North Sea by the brave among us, with Viking blood. Then, hoisting the sails, we were off, into an increasing breeze. The crossing took us 50 hours, with winds getting up to 40kts and big rolling swells to 4m; fairly gentle for the North Sea. The wind dropped each night and we had a beautiful starry sky for night watches. Day 2 found us amid the oil rigs which looked like towns at night – not hard to see! Tuesday morning and ‘Land Ho” – Scotland on the horizon. So on we sailed to my brother Albert, playing his bagpipes (copied onto my IPod for such an occasion) – enjoyed by all (I think!) At least the Capt enjoys the pipes.
Landfall was made at Peterhead; a lovely little village, in time for a late lunch and wee dram of Scotch to celebrate our successful crossing. Despite a full dental check just prior to leaving Aus’, a large filling came out of my tooth in my first Scotish lunch! So, into the dingy and off to toon in the hope of finding a dentist. The friendly locals directed me to the local dental surgery, where of course I was met with the usual ‘no appointments available for 3 weeks’. Fortunately, it was late in the day, and a delightful young lady dentist took pity on a poor Aussie sailor and filled my tooth for me; she was most enthusiastic about our voyage and keen to follow us on our web site.
Tooth filled; washing done, by midday the next day we were headed north , in calm, sunny conditions. A stop at Fraserburgh to reprovision, then an overnight gentle sail across the north coast to Inverness trolling a variety of lures for hours, in vain. We arrived at the beginning of the long, narrow, shallow, windy entry to Inverness too early; so the Capt and I had a hectic couple of hours navigating the channel in the dark, to reach the town bridge – will we fit under it??? NO!!! Back off (bow thrusters are wonderful). No clearance written on the bridge; nothing on the chart; ...... eventually we find a documented bridge height somewhere, which indicates we should fit (it’s high tide) – deep breath (my eyes closed tight) and under we go! YES, we still have our mast!
After a brief ‘recovery’ sleep; reprovisioning again (we eat and drink well); into our first lock we headed. The ‘Lochie’ was a delightful Scotsman who assured us we would be expert at this by Lock 27! And, he was right! We soon became expert ‘mules’! For 4 days we worked our way up (hard work) and then down again, through the Caledonian Canal. Heaving on lines to hold 20 tonnes with 2.5m keel steady; then pulling Olydia on to the next lock. This was interspersed with absolutely glorious sailing or motoring down the series of lochs; starting with Loch Ness on a perfect, calm, blue day. Not to be outdone by the Vikings among us, I joined them and dived into the 15 deg waters of Loch Ness – a VERY quick swim; and thankful for the hot shower on the duckboard. After our beautiful day traversing Loch Ness, we had a great Scottish meal in a pub in Fort Augusta – with haggis for the adventurous (it was very nice!). I even served up haggis for dinner on board one night! Our sail down Loch Linnhe was exhilarating; with the calm water protected by the Highlands towering above us, and a good breeze with some powerful gusts, Olydia loved it, and ‘flew’. This certainly is a fantastic way to see the Scottish Highlands, with some superb early morning views of Ben Nevis, until the top became clouded out. Unfortunately we were not able to stop in Fort William as hoped, as there was no suitable pier. Barbro, one of Swedish crew, left us to return home from Fort William. She will join us again in a month or so; and we all miss her.
After sheltering overnight in a marina near Oban, we decided to make a dash down to Islay while we had favourable winds (gale) in the right direction, racing against an incoming cold front from the Irish Sea. Unfortunately we had incredible tides against us, and finally reached Port Ellen on Islay after an 11hr sail in ever increasing winds with the onset of the cold front. Fortunately Olydia loves gale-force winds, as does the Capt, who is a brilliant sailor!
Port Ellen was everything you expect a Scottish coastal village to be; (plus 7 whisky distilleries and 6 pubs!) and the small marina was quickly filled with other yachts and yachties of many nationalities – who prudently sailed down the next day in calmer conditions (their boats being much lighter than Olydia). The highlight of our stay was the 3km walk to Laphroaig Distillery along a particularly picturesque coastline; eating wild blackberries as we went. The distillery tour and sampling was interesting and fun; our group comprised mainly of yachties. Of note – I actually found a very nice Marlborough Sav’ Blanc in the tiny Pt Ellen supermarket, so was able to enhance the crew’s education. (We had finished our several casks of a nice Chile Sav’ Blanc)
Our planned ‘short’ overnight sail to Northern Ireland, was again fraught by the amazing tides and currents, which always seemed to be against us (yes, we do have the complex tide charts). Another ‘recovery’ sleep, this time in Ballycastle, and we set sail down the coastline of Northern Island, with a waterfall and spectacular high, rocky headland to start. It was a rather emotional day for me; sailing along David’s homeland shores; but so lovely to do it, and I’m sure he was with me and enjoying the sail. We tucked into a nice marina in Hourglass Harbour for the night.
Yesterday we left Northern Ireland and had a lovely sail down to ‘Dublin’s fair city’; this time with kinder tides. Along the way Goran and Olydia clocked up their 15,000 nm milestone, which was of course a cause for celebration. We toasted their past 15,000 and our next 15,000 with delicious vintage French Champagne – of course! Olydia is a classy lady!
Entering Dublin’s busy port in the dark was exciting; dodging huge ferries and cargo ships in the long, narrow channel. It was great to dock in the marina, even if it meant running around in the cold rain. So; this morning our Capt has left Olydia and we girls on our own to hit the heights of Dublin. He’s flying back to Sweden for a couple of days to his 65th birthday ‘surprise’, which his daughters have organised. We crew are looking forward to a few days ashore; and hopefully an opportunity for me to post this very overdue blog entry!
I must apologise for taking so long to post a blog; but as you’ll see above, there hasn’t been much time to sit down and write one; let alone find somewhere with internet to post it. We’ve not had much luck with getting internet connections along the way.
In a nutshell – I’m just loving my new life afloat; the crew have bonded well, we have lots of fun; and the Capt and Olydia are amazing. Next entry, from where the tide takes us (and I have time to write!).
Love to all
Ros the Bosun
Weather: from calm, warm, blue skies to ‘icicle’ freezing winds (thank you Keith for insisting I bring some Antarctic gear; it’s getting well worn!)
A 24 hr sail from Skagen in Denmark to Norway found us in the picturesque village of Farsound on the south coast. Being able to berth Olydia amid other yachts on a little pier in the middle of town, was most convenient, especially as we arrived in time for a music festival. Just finished Saturday lunch and we hear the skirl of the bagpipes – so the Capt and I headed off in search of the source, deserting our boat cleaning duties. I was soon dancing ‘Strip the Willow’ in the town centre, to an excellent Fiddle and Bagpipe group over from Scotland. The Capt reneged on this opportunity for healthy exercise (probably wise with his lanky Viking build!) We had a great afternoon, with folk groups from different neighbouring countries performing (all for free) at different venues around town. This was topped off with a great night in a Norwegian pub, with more entertainment.
I broke out the fishing gear in Norway in a vain attempt to catch a mackeral; ably assisted by a couple of locals; one of whom even gave me Norwegian mackerel lures. At least the locals weren’t catching any either. It was fun to set up my fishing gear and have a go with the locals; who cracked up when they saw my lures for the deep blue.
After a couple of delightful days, and with a favourable weather forecast, we set off to tackle the infamous North Sea. We spent the morning of 28th motoring along the magnificent Norwegian coast in very calm conditions; with a brief stop for a plunge into the icy North Sea by the brave among us, with Viking blood. Then, hoisting the sails, we were off, into an increasing breeze. The crossing took us 50 hours, with winds getting up to 40kts and big rolling swells to 4m; fairly gentle for the North Sea. The wind dropped each night and we had a beautiful starry sky for night watches. Day 2 found us amid the oil rigs which looked like towns at night – not hard to see! Tuesday morning and ‘Land Ho” – Scotland on the horizon. So on we sailed to my brother Albert, playing his bagpipes (copied onto my IPod for such an occasion) – enjoyed by all (I think!) At least the Capt enjoys the pipes.
Landfall was made at Peterhead; a lovely little village, in time for a late lunch and wee dram of Scotch to celebrate our successful crossing. Despite a full dental check just prior to leaving Aus’, a large filling came out of my tooth in my first Scotish lunch! So, into the dingy and off to toon in the hope of finding a dentist. The friendly locals directed me to the local dental surgery, where of course I was met with the usual ‘no appointments available for 3 weeks’. Fortunately, it was late in the day, and a delightful young lady dentist took pity on a poor Aussie sailor and filled my tooth for me; she was most enthusiastic about our voyage and keen to follow us on our web site.
Tooth filled; washing done, by midday the next day we were headed north , in calm, sunny conditions. A stop at Fraserburgh to reprovision, then an overnight gentle sail across the north coast to Inverness trolling a variety of lures for hours, in vain. We arrived at the beginning of the long, narrow, shallow, windy entry to Inverness too early; so the Capt and I had a hectic couple of hours navigating the channel in the dark, to reach the town bridge – will we fit under it??? NO!!! Back off (bow thrusters are wonderful). No clearance written on the bridge; nothing on the chart; ...... eventually we find a documented bridge height somewhere, which indicates we should fit (it’s high tide) – deep breath (my eyes closed tight) and under we go! YES, we still have our mast!
After a brief ‘recovery’ sleep; reprovisioning again (we eat and drink well); into our first lock we headed. The ‘Lochie’ was a delightful Scotsman who assured us we would be expert at this by Lock 27! And, he was right! We soon became expert ‘mules’! For 4 days we worked our way up (hard work) and then down again, through the Caledonian Canal. Heaving on lines to hold 20 tonnes with 2.5m keel steady; then pulling Olydia on to the next lock. This was interspersed with absolutely glorious sailing or motoring down the series of lochs; starting with Loch Ness on a perfect, calm, blue day. Not to be outdone by the Vikings among us, I joined them and dived into the 15 deg waters of Loch Ness – a VERY quick swim; and thankful for the hot shower on the duckboard. After our beautiful day traversing Loch Ness, we had a great Scottish meal in a pub in Fort Augusta – with haggis for the adventurous (it was very nice!). I even served up haggis for dinner on board one night! Our sail down Loch Linnhe was exhilarating; with the calm water protected by the Highlands towering above us, and a good breeze with some powerful gusts, Olydia loved it, and ‘flew’. This certainly is a fantastic way to see the Scottish Highlands, with some superb early morning views of Ben Nevis, until the top became clouded out. Unfortunately we were not able to stop in Fort William as hoped, as there was no suitable pier. Barbro, one of Swedish crew, left us to return home from Fort William. She will join us again in a month or so; and we all miss her.
After sheltering overnight in a marina near Oban, we decided to make a dash down to Islay while we had favourable winds (gale) in the right direction, racing against an incoming cold front from the Irish Sea. Unfortunately we had incredible tides against us, and finally reached Port Ellen on Islay after an 11hr sail in ever increasing winds with the onset of the cold front. Fortunately Olydia loves gale-force winds, as does the Capt, who is a brilliant sailor!
Port Ellen was everything you expect a Scottish coastal village to be; (plus 7 whisky distilleries and 6 pubs!) and the small marina was quickly filled with other yachts and yachties of many nationalities – who prudently sailed down the next day in calmer conditions (their boats being much lighter than Olydia). The highlight of our stay was the 3km walk to Laphroaig Distillery along a particularly picturesque coastline; eating wild blackberries as we went. The distillery tour and sampling was interesting and fun; our group comprised mainly of yachties. Of note – I actually found a very nice Marlborough Sav’ Blanc in the tiny Pt Ellen supermarket, so was able to enhance the crew’s education. (We had finished our several casks of a nice Chile Sav’ Blanc)
Our planned ‘short’ overnight sail to Northern Ireland, was again fraught by the amazing tides and currents, which always seemed to be against us (yes, we do have the complex tide charts). Another ‘recovery’ sleep, this time in Ballycastle, and we set sail down the coastline of Northern Island, with a waterfall and spectacular high, rocky headland to start. It was a rather emotional day for me; sailing along David’s homeland shores; but so lovely to do it, and I’m sure he was with me and enjoying the sail. We tucked into a nice marina in Hourglass Harbour for the night.
Yesterday we left Northern Ireland and had a lovely sail down to ‘Dublin’s fair city’; this time with kinder tides. Along the way Goran and Olydia clocked up their 15,000 nm milestone, which was of course a cause for celebration. We toasted their past 15,000 and our next 15,000 with delicious vintage French Champagne – of course! Olydia is a classy lady!
Entering Dublin’s busy port in the dark was exciting; dodging huge ferries and cargo ships in the long, narrow channel. It was great to dock in the marina, even if it meant running around in the cold rain. So; this morning our Capt has left Olydia and we girls on our own to hit the heights of Dublin. He’s flying back to Sweden for a couple of days to his 65th birthday ‘surprise’, which his daughters have organised. We crew are looking forward to a few days ashore; and hopefully an opportunity for me to post this very overdue blog entry!
I must apologise for taking so long to post a blog; but as you’ll see above, there hasn’t been much time to sit down and write one; let alone find somewhere with internet to post it. We’ve not had much luck with getting internet connections along the way.
In a nutshell – I’m just loving my new life afloat; the crew have bonded well, we have lots of fun; and the Capt and Olydia are amazing. Next entry, from where the tide takes us (and I have time to write!).
Love to all
Ros the Bosun
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Sweden
Gunilla & Ros, ready to cast off
aboard Olydia II
Stenungsund
Shawna & Ros waiting for lunch, Goteborg
Cast Off
24 August
Skagen, Denmark
Well, it’s all happening! First night at sea in a 40 knot gale was the perfect initiation! What an opportunity for testing the mettle (and stomachs) of the new crew of ‘Olydia II’ – nothing like a quick learning curve (not to mention a quick ‘chuck’). We very quickly developed great confidence in our Skipper and Olydia! Consequently, we’re all still on board today, safely tucked into the sheltered harbour at Skagen, Denmark, with winds whistling through the rigging at up to 50 knots (No, the Bosun’s not going up the mast today!).
Our Swedish skipper and crew have been just fantastic, making us feel very welcome and right at home. Our Gottenburg weekend was a good opportunity to get to know each other before setting sail; which proved to be very fortunate in light of our earlier than scheduled crossing!
We set sail from Stenungsund for Denmark at 4pm yesterday, with quite a crowd of Swedish family and friends, and the local newspaper, to farewell us – to the tune of my Bosun’s pipe of course! The 2 hour sail through Stenungsund (fjiord) was in calm conditions, and very scenic, with many small islands, some with ‘summer houses’ and small villages. We intentionally set off for Denmark early, when we saw the big low pressure system coming in. Our aim was to reach Denmark (due west) before the strengthening E winds turned SW, which we managed within 15 minutes, after a 9 hr crossing in the building storm. Berthing the yacht at 1am (first time for the new crew) in a gale was an interesting experience (with Olydia at right angles to the peer for sometime!) – we eventually got the stern in with the help of a semi-clad, kindly (male) neighbour. Poor Cpt Goran, must have been questioning his wisdom in choice of crew by this time!
We’ll be spending a few days in Denmark, until the weather improves – considerably – and then, cross to Norway. This is giving the new crew a good opportunity to get ourselves acquainted with the boat, and well organised. Skagen is also a good spot to visit; famous for its artists.
A highlight of my departure had to be news from home that Gwendolyn had passed her anaesthetics exam – just fantastic, GM!!
Next posting – from where the wind blows us .......
PS There are some nice photos of our departure on the facebook ‘OlydiaII Circumnavigation Journey’ – taken by a fareweller, some from a high bridge we passed under.
Skagen, Denmark
Well, it’s all happening! First night at sea in a 40 knot gale was the perfect initiation! What an opportunity for testing the mettle (and stomachs) of the new crew of ‘Olydia II’ – nothing like a quick learning curve (not to mention a quick ‘chuck’). We very quickly developed great confidence in our Skipper and Olydia! Consequently, we’re all still on board today, safely tucked into the sheltered harbour at Skagen, Denmark, with winds whistling through the rigging at up to 50 knots (No, the Bosun’s not going up the mast today!).
Our Swedish skipper and crew have been just fantastic, making us feel very welcome and right at home. Our Gottenburg weekend was a good opportunity to get to know each other before setting sail; which proved to be very fortunate in light of our earlier than scheduled crossing!
We set sail from Stenungsund for Denmark at 4pm yesterday, with quite a crowd of Swedish family and friends, and the local newspaper, to farewell us – to the tune of my Bosun’s pipe of course! The 2 hour sail through Stenungsund (fjiord) was in calm conditions, and very scenic, with many small islands, some with ‘summer houses’ and small villages. We intentionally set off for Denmark early, when we saw the big low pressure system coming in. Our aim was to reach Denmark (due west) before the strengthening E winds turned SW, which we managed within 15 minutes, after a 9 hr crossing in the building storm. Berthing the yacht at 1am (first time for the new crew) in a gale was an interesting experience (with Olydia at right angles to the peer for sometime!) – we eventually got the stern in with the help of a semi-clad, kindly (male) neighbour. Poor Cpt Goran, must have been questioning his wisdom in choice of crew by this time!
We’ll be spending a few days in Denmark, until the weather improves – considerably – and then, cross to Norway. This is giving the new crew a good opportunity to get ourselves acquainted with the boat, and well organised. Skagen is also a good spot to visit; famous for its artists.
A highlight of my departure had to be news from home that Gwendolyn had passed her anaesthetics exam – just fantastic, GM!!
Next posting – from where the wind blows us .......
PS There are some nice photos of our departure on the facebook ‘OlydiaII Circumnavigation Journey’ – taken by a fareweller, some from a high bridge we passed under.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Countdown to departure
25 more sleeps, and I'm on my way to Sweden to join Goran our Skipper and our multi-national crew on the Halberg Rassy cruising yacht, the 'Olydia II'. Departure is set for 23rd August from the Stenungsund Fjiord.
I'm planning a 'farewell bash' on Saturday evening, 14th August - so keep this date free.
I'm planning a 'farewell bash' on Saturday evening, 14th August - so keep this date free.
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