1,000+ Nm

53 to 46 deg N (and getting warmer)

Olydia's crew really enjoyed our 3-day break ashore in Dublin; taking in the local colour with the markets (particularly the cheeses and wines); a Dublin tour, shopping, eating out, and an excellent tour of the Guinness Warehouse/brewery, culminating in drinking your requisite pint of the creamy brew (yes, I managed it!). I was even able to buy an alternate pair of jeans so that I could peel off my one and only, salt-encrusted pair.

Monday 13th - Tues 14th - with the Capt back aboard, we were soon heading south again, eager to reach warmer climes. After battling a 30-40 kt SW gale in the Irish Sea (with an inconvenient reef between us and shelter), with a strong current against the waves, causing a particularly steep, nasty sea, we finally made it into the perfect haven of Arklow, just before midnight, to our welcome warm cabins and bunks (Olydia’s diesel heater is fantastic). Somewhere out there our foreward port light had gone out, and on inspection the next morning, we found only 2 wires - it was missing! No doubt, a good whack from one of those waves in the dark. Our foreward lights now also sport good old duct tape, ready for the next gale.

What a beautiful, and particularly friendly little Irish town we found ourselves in. Lorcan O’Toole at the local Marina was a Godsend to our weary crew, weighed down with even more than the usual mountain of salty laundry. He provided a private ’taxi service’ and all the necessary contacts and information to ease our way through the tasks of a busy day ashore in a strange port.

After a pleasant evening sail on 14th, hugging the shelter of the Irish coast, we arrived at Kilmore Quay in time to light the candles on Goran’s Guiness & chocolate birthday cake, before midnight. And what a picturesque fishing village Kilmore Quay is, with many buildings featuring old as well as new, thatched roofs. After managing a long overdue haircut, a lovely relaxing day in this gorgeous little Irish village, was topped off with a delicious seafood dinner in a local restaurant, before setting sail once again – this time for Penzance in Cornwall, England.

We were relieved with a surprisingly calm crossing of the Irish Sea to Cornwall; with just a big, rolly swell to remind us we were still at sea through the night. Around this time we clocked up a milestone - our first 1,000 Nm. It was neat to round Lands End, recalling standing there, looking out to sea, 37 years ago, never dreaming I would one day sail past. The cruise along the Cornish coast was lovely, with cliffs strewn with the infamous caves of the pirates and smugglers. We berthed in the beautiful little fishing village of Newlyn; adjacent to Penzance, a 20 min walk along the foreshore. This is a major crab and lobster exporting area. The crew enjoyed a day exploring the area, while the Capt organised some starter-motor maintenance for Olydia.

With everything ship-shape again, we left the UK behind – next stop, Brittany. Another calm crossing; aware that another low pressure system was only a day away, and keen to get out of this weather zone. The heavy shipping traffic kept us on our toes during our night watches. Early the next morning, Goran made contact with a Swedish Naval training sailing ship, the ‘Falcon’, heading our way, as we entered the Bay of Biscay. Goran had done his naval training on her many moons ago, so this was quite significant. We sailed alongside her for a short time which was exciting. (not sure if I can upload my video clip of her overtaking us). We spent the rest of the day cruising along the Brittany coast, entertained by an exuberant pod of dophins (with white tummies) playing with us for quite some time.

Our first overnight stop was in a marina full of yachts at Cameret, a Riviera style town on the Brittany coast; obviously a popular holiday destination for the wealthy in summer. Another lovely cruise the next day, past small islands and interesting rock formations, took us to Benardet; trolling all the way; unfortunately still no fish; bananas are now banned on Olydia! This marina was in the river under a park; very picturesque and ‘up-market’. I’ve never seen so many yachts in one place.

After a quick wander ashore the next morning, we were headed for our first French destination of Belle-Ile-en-Mer – glassy calm sea all day – and still no sign of fish! What an amazing island; Olydia moored fore and aft under the imposing walls of the Citadelle Vauban; a massive fortress which towers over the small harbour. Our ‘dinghy ferry’ we set up to get us across to the stone wall we had to climb (up a very old ladder) to get ashore, was entertaining (probably more-so for the neighbouring yachts). We hired a car to drive around the island, famous for its magnificent coastline of cliffs and secluded beaches, with sheep grazing above. It’s amazing that such a beautiful island has managed to escape the trappings of major tourism for so long. I thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the museum in the Citadelle; built in the 11th century as a monastery, and reconstructed as a fort in the 16th and 17th centuries. The history of this little island, and its sea battles, right up to WWII, was incredible. I got so engrossed in its Maritime Museum, I managed to get locked in at closing time!! After some heavy hammering on the ancient wooden doors, and yelling through the crack, I was rescued by an embarrassed attendant. Children dream of being locked in a toy shop overnight; but not a museum in an ancient stone fortress!

Having narrowly escaped imprisonment, I leaped aboard Olydia and we headed out onto a still glassy ocean, and into a magical sunset on an oily sea, for an overnight cruise down to La Rochelle on the French coast – mid Bay of Biscay. Not sure where the famous Bay of Biscay gales have gone; but not looking. Weather is forecast to change in a couple of days, so presently enjoying the newfound sunshine – I’ve even brought out the shorts!

Even my new French lure isn’t getting results! Watch this space, I’ll catch a fish one of these days!

Love to all back home,
Ros in France xxxxxx